Kirtipur, Nepal: History, Temples & Things to Do
Kirtipur is originally a Newari settlement, and it’s a short trip from Kathmandu. Many people come here just to eat Newari food at its famous restaurant, Newa Lahana. On my first trip to Kirtipur, my friend took me here to have Newari food. After many years, I came back to Kirtipur, and this time, I wanted to explore the town and its major attractions.
The best things to do in Kirtipur is to visit the Uma Maheshwar temple, Bagh Bhairav temple, Chilancho Stupa, and the Thai Bihar. Kirtipur is on a hilltop, and I found the view is the best from the Uma Maheshwar temple and from the Newa Lahana restaurant. My favourite place was the Chilancho Stupa, it was less busy and felt really peaceful.
It is perfect for a half-day trip from Kathmandu, but if you are looking for a cultural trip, I would first prioritize to visit Bhaktapur and Patan. If you have already visited Bhakatapur and Patan, then Kirtipur is a nice place to visit to see some more temples.
Information for Visiting
Best Time to Visit
Kirtipur can be visited all year around, even during monsoon. When the weather is clear, you get great views of Kathmandu Valley and the Himalayas. The best chance for views of the Himalayas is in autumn and spring, but it’s not guaranteed.
During monsoon when it rains a lot, I like to visit places within Kathmandu Valley, and Kirtipur is a nice place to visit for a half-day trip. We visited just before the start of the monsoon season, and while we got a view of the valley, there was a lot of haze and smog, so the mountains were not visible.
If you are deciding on which day to visit Kirtipur, it’s better to avoid Saturdays. Saturday is the day off in Nepal (there is only one day off for most people), and the temples in Kiritipur can get busy on that day. We also visited Kirtipur on a Saturday, and two of the well-known temples (Bagh Bhairab and Uma Maheshwar) were very busy.
If you want to visit the temples when there are less people around (especially if you want to take good photos), then it’s better to come in the morning on a weekday.
How Long to Spend in Kirtipur
The ideal time to spend in Kirtipur is around half a day. The main attractions (temples) are in close walking distance of each other, and we explored Kirtipur in a few hours. We took the longest time while having food and drinks at Newa Lahana, a popular Newari restaurant.
There are a couple of rooftop cafes by the Uma Maheshwar Temple, and if you also take a tea/coffee break here to see the view of Kathmandu Valley, then it can add some extra time to your time in Kirtipur, but overall, I think half a day is just enough to explore Kirtipur.
How to Get to Kirtipur
The easiest way to get to Kirtipur is by taking a taxi or bus. The public buses leave from Ratna Park, and it takes around half an hour to get to Kirtipur. The bus is a budget-friendly option as the ticket is only Rs. 35 (USD 0.20).
For taking a taxi, I recommend booking a taxi using one of the Nepali taxi apps, Pathao or InDrive. It’s the best to order taxis using the taxi apps because the price is fixed. If you hail a regular taxi on the street, they will overcharge you or you would have to bargain hard to get a better price. The taxi costs around Rs. 600 (USD 4) from central Kathmandu (Thamel) to Kirtipur.
Brief History of Kirtipur
Kirtipur is an ancient Newari town located 5 km (3 miles) south-west of Kathmandu. ‘Kirti’ means ‘glory’ and ‘pur’ means ‘city’, and it was established in 1099 AD.
First, it was a fortified outpost and then became a part of the Kingdom of Lalitpur. It became a central point when Prithvi Narayan Shah (Gorkha King) started his quest to unify Nepal and invaded the Kathmandu Valley in 18th century.
Kirtipur was a strategic point, and it took three attempts for Prithvi Narayan Shah to overtake Kirtipur. The battle is known as the ‘Battle of Kirtipur’, which was between the Newari people of the valley and the Gorkhali army led by Prithvi Narayan Shah.
Kirtipur fought hard against Prithvi Narayan Shah and was only defeated after a nobleman from Kirtipur defected and opened the gates for the Gorkhali army. After Kirtipur was defeated, the rest of the Kathmandu Valley followed.
Is Kirtipur Worth Visiting?
Yes, Kirtipur is definitely worth visiting and you can explore the main attractions in half a day. Kirtipur is originally a Newari settlement, and it’s got a lot of houses built in Newari architecture and has nice Newari restaurants.
Many of the houses built in Newari architecture were a bit run down (not as nicely renovated like in Bhaktapur or Bandipur), and my boyfriend joked that it made him think of some ghost houses.
Still, Kirtipur is worth it, even if just to have Newari food, see the view of Kathmandu Valley, and visiting its temples (Uma Maheshwar, Bagh Bhairab) and the Chilancho Stupa. If you have not been to Bhaktapur and Patan yet, then I recommend visiting those places first, however, if you have already been there and looking for new places to explore, then Kirtipur is a great option.
Places to Visit in Kirtipur
Chilancho Stupa
The Chilancho Stupa is my favourite place in Kirtipur. In Newari language ‘chilan’ means ‘eternal’ and ‘cho’ means ‘hill top’, so ‘chilancho’ means ‘eternal stupa on the hill top’. The stupa is less visited than other temples in Kirtipur, so I found it very peaceful.
It is a Buddhist Stupa, and although the exact date of its construction is uncertain, it is believed that it was founded by Emperor Ashoka in 3rd century BC. The first actual record of the stupa is from 1533 when it underwent renovations.
The main stupa is 10.5 meters (34 ft) high and there are smaller shrines around it. The stupa is surrounded by private houses. There is no view of the Kathmandu Valley from the stupa, but I didn’t mind, the stupa was still my favourite.
Bagh Bhairav Temple
The Bagh Bhairav Temple is one of the major Hindu temples in Kirtipur. It’s on the top of Kirtipur and the view of Kathmandu Valley is pretty good from here.
In Nepali, ‘bagh’ means ‘tiger’, and the temple is dedicated to Bharivav, an incarnation of Lord Shiva in the form of a ‘tiger’. The temple is a three-tiered pagoda and is built in Newari architecture (red bricks, wood carved windows). There are also some smaller shrines around the temple.
The temple was founded back in 1099-1126 during the reign of King Shivadeva III. It was restored in 1515 (its first records exist from this time) when the temple got its closest form to its current shape.
People come here to do puja (worshipping) before important life events, like weddings. It was a bit busy when we visited the temple (it was a Saturday), and it only take a short time to check out the temple. Foreigners are not allowed to go inside the temple (it was a letdown for me), but if you are Nepali, you are allowed to go inside.
Uma Maheshwar Temple
The Uma Maheshwar Temple is another major temple in Kirtipur. I preferred this temple to Bagh Bhairav, and I found that the view of Kathmandu Valley is better from here then from Bagh Bhairav. The temple is higher up than Bagh Bhairav, and there are also a few cafes around the temple from where you can get an even better view of Kathmandu.
It is a three-tiered temple on a raised platform (almost like a small version of temples in Bhaktapur), built in Newari architecture. It was probably built in 1655 or sometime before, but its exact date of foundation remains uncertain.
There is a stone icon of Shiva and Parvati at the temple, with Shiva sitting cross-legged with Parvati. This sitting position is called as “Uma Maheshwar”, and that’s where the name of the temple originates from.
The best time to visit Uma Maheshwar is in the mornings on a weekday. We visited on a Saturday afternoon, and it was not only busy, but the sun was also in a position that made it difficult to take good photos.
Nagar Mandap Shree Kirti Bihar (Thai Bihar)
The Nagar Mandap Shree Kirti Bihar (in short Thai Bihar) was built in 1975, and it is the only Thai-style temple in Nepal outside of Lumbini. It’s located near the entry of Kirtipur, a bit after you pass the entry gate.
It’s a Buddhist monastery and it was built in traditional Thai architecture style. There is some view of the Kathmandu Valley from here, but not as good as it is from Uma Maheshwar temple or Bagh Bhairav.
I liked this temple as it’s built in Thai architecture which is rare to find in Nepal. The entry is free for everyone (including foreigners) and you can also take a peek inside the temple.
De Pukhu Pond
There are a couple of ponds in Kirtipur, and the most famous one is the De Pukha. In Newari language “de pukhu” means “country’s pond”. It is a rainwater pond and it is located close to the Bagh Bhairav Temple.
The pond is a center point in Kirtipur during Indra Jatra, a Nepali festival. People gather around the pond during the festival, playing music and dancing.
Colourful Houses of Kirtipur
If you ever see a photo of Kirtipur, it’ll most likely be of colourful houses next to each other on a hillside. The spot for the view of the houses is from the bottom of Kirtipur, just before the entry gate.
There is a minivan station before entering Kirtipur, and when you walk past the minivans, you can get a good view of the houses on the hillside. I vaguely remember that on my first visit to Kirtipur, you could get a much better view, but now there is a building at the bottom of Kirtipur that slightly blocks the view.
View of Kathmandu Valley
Kirtipur is located on a hill, and you get a nice view of Kathmandu Valley from a few places at the top. If the weather is clear (most likely in autumn or spring), you can also see the Himalayas.
Some of the best places with a view in Kirtipur are at the Bagh Bhairav Temple, Uma Maheshwar Temple and from Newa Lahana. At the Uma Maheshwar Temple, they also have some rooftop cafes, which seemed like nice places to see the view of Kathmandu Valley and take a short break.
I liked the view of Kathmandu Valley the most from Newa Lahana, but there was some haze when we were there, so we couldn’t get a view of the Himalayas.
Restaurants in Kirtipur (& What to Eat)
Newa Lahana
Kritipur is famous for Newari food, and the most popular Newari restaurant in Kirtipur is the Newa Lahana. Lots of people come from Kathmandu to Kirtipur only for the food here.
On my first trip to Kirtipur, my friend took me to Kirtipur specifically to try food here (it was almost 10 years ago), and now recently I came back here with my boyfriend to have some food.
Newari food will forever remain way too spicy for me, but I loved the dishes we had. We had chicken samay baji (the Newari version of dal bhat), bara (lentil patty), aloo tama (potato bamboo soup, I love this), and some chyang (alcoholic drink made from fermented rice and millet).
The food was good but too spicy for me. My stomach is not used to spicy food, so later, it was a bit hard on my stomach too. Otherwise, it is a pretty good place, and the view of Kathmandu Valley is great.
Hotels in Kirtipur
Kirtipur is popular to visit as a day trip or half-day trip from Kathmandu, and not many people stay for overnight. For this reason, there are not that many hotels in Kritipur, and the ones that are there, are mainly homestays.
Homestays are run by local, Nepali families and they help you learn more about Nepali culture. I haven’t stayed in Kirtipur overnight, but the Kirtipur Comfort Homestay is one of the highly rated homestays in the area. Breakfast and dinner are included in the price.
🏠 Planning to stay in Kirtipur longer? Book the Kirtipur Comfort Homestay: highly rated accommodation hosted by a local family!
Frequently Asked Questions
What is Kirtipur famous for?
Kirtipur is originally a Newari settlement, and it is famous for its tempels, Newari food, and architecture. Kirtipur is also famous for its colourful houses built next to each other on the hillside.
How far is Kirtipur from Kathmandu?
Kirtipur is around 5 km (3 miles) south-west of Kathmandu and can be reached by public bus or taxi. The public bus goes from Ratna Park and takes around half an hour, while the taxi costs around Rs. 600 (USD 4) and takes around 15 minutes.
My Final Tips for Visiting Kirtipur
Overall, Kirtipur is a nice place to visit for a half-day trip from Kathmandu. You could spend the whole day here if you want to go cafe hopping, but the main attractions can be visited in around 2 hours.
We spent an afternoon in Kirtipur, and found that the temples and stupas can be visited pretty quickly. We spent most of our time at Newa Lahana, a popular Newari restaurant in Kirtipur.
The best places to visit in Kirtipur are the Uma Maheshwar Temple (best view of Kathmandu Valley), Chilancho Stupa (very peaceful and less busy), and Newa Lahana for food. The view from Bagh Bhairav temple is also fine, but it’s much better from Uma Maheshwar.
Saturdays get really busy, so it’s better to visit on a weekday if that’s a possibility. We visited on a Saturday and it was really busy at the temples. We decided that next time we visit Kirtipur, we’ll come early morning on a weekday when there aren’t many people around.
If you are deciding on going for a day trip from Kathmandu, I recommend first visiting Bhaktapur, Patan, Nagarkot or Dhulikhel. Kirtipur is a good option to visit if you’ve already been to these places. If you don’t have time to go for a day trip, then Kirtipur is a good alternative as you can explore it in just a few hours.
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